Monday, July 29, 2013

How Can Protein Help Your Hair?

 
 


 


 
 
 
 
Hey Dolls!!
 
 
Hope you guys had a lovely weekend like I did. The weekend was filled with love and new beginnings!
 
 
So I want to talk about how important protein treatments are for your hair.
 
If you are currently transitioning then protein treatments is something that's very important, because as your hair was going through the relaxer process, the chemicals in the relaxers are tearing down your hair, hair follicles and just leaves your hair straight and limp.
 
Plus what's great about protein treatments it puts the snap back in your curls!! Curls be poppin! If your curls dont snap back after you wash your hair and it just says limp, then you will need a protein treatment.
 
Since you are currently transitioning you need to put your hair on a regularly schedule in order to maintain the two textures and to make sure your new growth of curls grow in healthy.
 
Protein treatments are excellent for people with damage or hair that deals with breakage, porous hair, or hair thats fine or thin.
 

 
 
When I do my monthly protein treatments I use Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Shampoo followed by Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner
 
Both products can be found on Amazon.com for about $8.00-12.00 depends on which seller you purchase from. Also I saw Aubrey Organics products in Fairway Supermarkets but it's more pricey there. Aubrey Organics products are GREAT for natural hair.
 
 
Here I am showing how to apply conditioner to your hair...ALWAYS start with your tips when you are working on your hair and work your way up to the roots.

 
 
I section my hair and apply the Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner to each section and use hair clips to secure the hair. Then I cover my hair with a plastic cap ( this time I ran out of my conditioning plastic caps so I settled for my target bag-heyI love Target' they always come in handy!!) Covering your hair will seal in the moisture and it will help the conditioner work more in your hair.

 

 
 
 
 I normally just leave the conditoner in my hair for a few hours while I handle things around the house or sleep with the conditioner in my hair overnight, but I just started using this conditioning cap you can hook up to you handheld hair dryer. Got it at Sally's Beauty Supply for $7.99.
I barely use heat on my hair because heat can damage your hair (which I will later discuss in a posting) but the conditioning cap saves me half the time and so far I used it twice and I really like it!
 
So after you finish conditioning you hair just rinse out with lukewarm or cool water and either let it air dry (like I do) or you can dry your hair with a cotton t-shirt. Drying your hair with towels will snag on your hair and cause breakage. Now we dont want that now!
 
 
 
For more information about the best Proteins for your hair check out
The Best Protein for Hair on naturallycurly.com....Also you can create your own homeade hair protein treatment with things thats in your refrigerator.. how awesome is that!!





 
 
Love and Light Dolls!!!


Friday, July 26, 2013

Decoding Hair Texture: Hair Typing Systems 101

Decoding Hair Texture: Hair Typing Systems 101
Posted by CURLYNIKKI|

http://www.naturallycurly.com/pages/hairtypes/type4#type-4b







… by Susan Walker of Earthtones Naturals
via ThreeNaturals

Now that hair texture and type are established, we can take a closer look at some popular hair typing systems. These are used by textured women to help identify their hair and communicate with other curlies or product choice and hair care methods. Some of these systems are simple, some more complex. In my opinion, I believe they should be used as a general guide to better understand your hair, which products will be beneficial for it, and how to take care of it.

Andre Walker’s Curl Typing System
Possibly the most popular and used by mainly curly girls is the Andre Walker system. Many systems are based on this one. In 1997 he took the standard hairdresser texture classes and expanded it into curl typing. He classified hair into four main categories: Straight – Type 1, Wavy – Type 2, Curly – Type 3 and Kinky – Type 4. Andre created and defined subcategories - a, b, c – within the texture classes.

Type 1
Type 1 is straight hair and is further subcategorized:

•Type 1a – Straight (Fine/Thin) – Hair tends to be very soft, shiny and difficult to hold a curl. Hair also tends to be oily, and difficult to damage.
•Type 1b – Straight (Medium) – Hair has lots of volume & body.
•Type 1c – Straight (Coarse) – Hair is normally bone straight and difficult to curl. Asian women usually fall into this category.

Type 2
Type 2 is wavy and tends to be coarse, with a definite S pattern to it. There are three Type 2 subtypes defined below.

•Type 2a – Wavy (Fine/Thin) – Hair has a definite “S” pattern. Normally can accomplish various styles.
•Type 2b – Wavy (Medium) – Hair tends to be frizzy, and a little resistant to styling.
•Type 2c – Wavy (Coarse) – Hair is also resistant to styling and normally very frizzy; tends to have thicker waves.

Type 3
When this type of hair is wet, it appears to be pretty straight. As it dries, the hair goes back to its curly state. When curly hair is wet it usually straightens out. As it dries, it absorbs the water and contracts to its curliest state. Humidity tends to make this type of curly hair even curlier, or frizzier. Type 3 hair has a lot of body and is easily styled in its natural state, or it can be easily straightened with a blow-dryer into a smoother style. Healthy Type 3 hair is shiny, with soft, smooth curls and strong elasticity. The curls are well defined and springy.
Andre defines two subtypes of curly hair. First, there is type 3a and 3b. The longer the hair is the more defined the curl. Then there is type 3b hair, which has a medium amount of curl to tight corkscrews. It’s not unusual to see a mixture of these types existing on the same head. Curly hair usually consists of a combination of textures, with the crown being the curliest part. Lastly there is a type 3c. This is a hair type that is not in Andre Walker’s book. This type of hair can be described as tight curls in corkscrews. The curls can be either kinky, or very tightly curled, with a lot of strands densely packed together.

Type 3a – Curly (Loose Curls) – Hair tends to be shiny and there can be a combination of textures. It can be thick & full with lots of body, with a definite “S” pattern. It also tends to be frizzy. The longer the hair the more defined the curl becomes.
Type 3b – Curly (Tight Curls) – Also tends to have a combination texture, with a medium amount of curl.

Type 4
According to Andre Walker, if your hair falls into the Type 4 category, then it is kinky, or very tightly curled. Generally, Type 4 hair is very wiry, very tightly coiled and very fragile. Similar to Type 3 hair, Type 4 hair appears to be coarse, but it is actually quite fine, with lots and lots of these strands densely packed together. Healthy Type 4 hair typically has sheen rather than shine. It will be soft and silky to the touch and have proper elasticity.
There are two subtypes of Type 4 hair: Type 4a, tightly coiled hair that, when stretched, has an S pattern, much like curly hair; and Type 4b, which has a Z pattern, less of a defined curl pattern. The hair bends in sharp angles like the letter Z. Type 4a tends to have more moisture than Type 4b which will be wiry.

•Type 4a – Kinky (Soft) – Hair tends to be very fragile, tightly coiled, and has a more defined curly pattern.
•Type 4b – Kinky (Wiry) – Also very fragile and tightly coiled; however with a less defined curly pattern -has more of a “Z” pattern shape.

L.O.I.S. African American Natural Texture Typing System
This popular curly typing system basically deals with Straight, Wavy, Curly, Kinky and Nappy categories. Compared to the Andre Walker system, it also takes strand thickness into account and assesses how hair texture (thin/fine, medium, thick, very thick) can impact the various top categories.

This system which is very comprehensive and somewhat complex is based around the letters L. O. I. S. which stands for L = Bend, O = Curl, I = Straight and S = Wave. In addition to Bend, Curl, Straight and Wave is the texture or strand thickness, including the categories of thin, medium and thick.

Additional detailed definitions of natural textured hair include -

Thready: low sheen, high shine, low frizz
Wiry : sparkly sheen, low shine, low frizz
Cottony: low sheen, low shine, high frizz
Spongy: high sheen, low shine, high frizz
Silky: low sheen, high shine, low frizz
Shine is defined as hair that reflects light along its surface. Sheen is a sparkle to the hair.

Textured hair is extremely difficult to classify due to the complexities of this hair type in terms of texture and curl pattern. Despite their limitations, hair typing systems do a great job at giving a general idea of categorizing hair to help guide product choice and hair care. One of the best examples of this is the Naturally Curly Hair Finder which does an excellent job of expanding on the major hair typing systems, providing images of these hair types and giving hair care tips to bring out the best in each type.

What Type are You?
Select a single strand of the most common type of hair on your head. Aim for the most common texture on your head if you have different hair textures. The hair should be freshly washed without products applied to it and rinsed in cold water. Place the hair on a piece of white paper. To determine texture, compare your hair to a piece of thread. If you hair is thinner than the thread it is fine. If it is the same thickness then you have medium hair. If your hair is thicker than the thread then you have thick hair.

Find Your Pattern
The bends, kinks and coils of your hair will resemble one of more of the letters L, O, I or S.
L – If the hair has all bends, right angles and folds with little to no curve then you are daughter L.
O – If the strand is rolled up into the shape of one or several zeros like a spiral, then you are
daughter O.
I – If the hair lies mostly flat with no distinctive curve or bend you are daughter I.
S – If the strand looks like a wavy line with hills and valleys then you are daughter S.
You may have a combination of the L,O,I,S letters, possibly with one dominant.

Determine if your hair is:
Thready – Hair has a low sheen, with high shine if the hair is held taut (as in a braid), with low frizz. Wets easily but water dries out quickly.
Wiry – Hair has a sparkly sheen, with low shine and low frizz. Water beads up or bounces off the hair strands. Hair never seems to get fully wet.
Cottony – Hair has a low sheen, a high shine if the hair is held taut and has high frizz. Absorbs water quickly but does not get thoroughly wet very fast.
Spongy – Hair has a high sheen with low shine with a compacted looking frizz. Absorbs water before it gets thoroughly wet.
Silky – Hair has low sheen, a very high shine, with a lot or low frizz. Easily wets in water.

What is your hair type and texture according to the above systems?
Are there similarities or differences among the various systems?
 
 
 
**Natural_e_Kee says**
 
Now I know hair types can be a bit confusing to first understand. It's important to know your hair type in order to understand what hair products are good for your hair and what is'nt but this shouldnt be your main focus about your hair**
 
 
What's your current hair type???
Understanding Hair Texture
Posted by CURLYNIKKI


source
…by Susan Walker of Earthtones Naturals

Part 1: Hair Texture

We love systems don’t we? Systems often take complex ideas or processes and simplify them for people to use and get a desired result. The great thing about systems is their simplicity; however this can also be a weakness. In life things are rarely simple. They are rarely straightforward and often contain complexities that cannot be systematically addressed.

There have been several attempts to systematically type hair and texture into easy-to-use-and-understand categories. While they are meant to give a general idea of how to classify hair I find that for some naturals they are used as gospel. Some systems may do more harm than good by typing hair as “good” and “bad”. Now I know what the common mantras are – healthy hair is good hair, all curly hair is good hair, etc. However not everyone really believes or accepts that. I’ve written about this in a previous post, but it can take a while for someone to really come to terms with their hair types and texture and truly love being natural and love their hair.

I was consulting a woman last week and had my hair in a twist out. My hair is extremely thick and kinky curly, while hers is fine with a wavy curl pattern. She was admiring my hair and stated that she wished her hair were like mine. I thought the same thing about hers due to the ability of her hair to be styled quickly and easily. Since my hair tangles very easily and is so thick my cleansing regimen is pretty extensive. Additionally, I rarely wear my hair in wash n’ go styles anymore because of this. Furthermore regarding many hair-typing systems all kinky, curly and coily hair tends to be lumped into one big category with a few variations. So, how useful is that? Considering everyone’s hair is slightly different and people can even have different textures and types of hair emerging from their scalp, categorizing hair is a difficult proposition at best. So should we do away with hair-typing and classification systems? Not necessarily. Where I find hair typing most useful is in assisting with product choice.

For the next few posts I’ll be discussing some popular hair typing systems. One, two or all of them can be used in a comprehensive way to guide you in the types of products that would be best for your hair. However, first I’ll give an overview of hair texture and type.

First things First – Hair Texture

Regardless of if your hair is straight, wavy, curly or kinky we all have 3 basic textures: fine, medium and thick which can also be called coarse. Texture is not how the hair feels but describes the thickness of each individual strand of hair. The comparison is typically to a piece of thread. If your hair is fine, it’s thinner than the thread, medium hair is usually the same width and thick or coarse strands are thicker than the piece of thread.

Characteristics of Each Hair Texture

Fine Hair
Fine hair is the most fragile texture and can be easily damaged. Contrary to popular belief, people
with finer hair tend to have more hair than people with thicker hair strands. Fine hair can tend
to be oilier than other hair types. For those of you with fine hair you may find difficulty holding a
style; your hair is light and can fall flat against your head. Volume is often desired but not often
attained. Structurally fine hair has two hair layers – a cortex and a cuticle.

Fine natural hair:
•Doesn’t hold styles well
•Can become weighed down with heavy products, causing the hair to look stringy
•Can look thin
•Can break easily because it’s fragile

Medium Hair
Medium hair is the most common hair type and often covers the scalp very well. This hair texture is not as fragile as fine hair and can be manipulated into styles easily. Structurally, medium textures usually have two layers – the cortex and cuticle – and may contain the medulla.

Medium natural hair:
• Holds styles fairly well
• Usually looks thick and covers the scalp well
• Is not as prone to breakage as fine hair

Thick or Coarse Hair
This hair texture is strong because structurally it contains all three hair layers – the cortex, cuticle and medulla. The medulla, the innermost layer of the hair shaft is pretty much a series of empty spaces. It’s an area filled mostly with air and protein. This hair texture usually takes longer to dry than others, and can be resistant to various chemical treatments. It can tolerate heat well and resist breakage better than the fine or medium hair.

Thick natural hair:
• Appears full
• Holds styles well
• Can tolerate higher amounts of heat
• Can be resistant to hair colouring and chemical relaxers

Hair Type
In general there are 4 basic hair types: straight, wavy, curly, kinky curly. This classification is based on the shape of the hair fiber.

Straight
Naturally straight hair is the strongest of the types and reflects light to the eye the best giving it a glossy appearance. One challenge of curly hair is that it’s resistant to curling and usually requires the use of chemicals for this to be done permanently.

Wavy
Wavy hair has s-shaped curls down its length or much of the hair can appear straight with slight bends towards the ends of the hair. Wavy hair can frizz fairly easily and requires care to achieve perfect waves.

Curly
Curly hair tends to do so down the entire length of the hair shaft. Strand thickness can range from fine to coarse but is most often fine. The greatest challenges for curly hair types are frizz, lack of curl definition, shrinkage and dryness, to a lesser extent.

Kinky-Curly
This hair type has the tightest curls ranging from fine to coarse with s-shaped and z-shaped curls with everything in between! It is the most fragile of the types. If curl definition is a challenge for curly hair types it’s almost an impossibility for kinky-curly hair. Additionally, shrinkage and dryness are two issues to constantly fight against.

Join me next week as I begin discussing popular hair typing systems!


What is your hair texture and texture? What are your best styles?

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Good vs The Bad



Hey Dolls!


I want to talk about what products you will need to use in order to maintain healthy curls and retain length.

First thing when buying hair products you need to READ LABELS!! I cant stress how important reading labels on hair products are because there are many products out on the market that contain chemicals that is harsh to your natural hair.


Before purchasing any hair products for washing your hair or styling in the future read the ingredients on the packaging. If the product contains:

Alcohol can seriously dry and strip your hair of the natural oils your hair
Sulfates--sodium laurel sulfate, sodium, laureth sulfate, and ammonium laurel sulfate
Silicone's-- Conditioning  aides thats used in shampoos, conditioners, stylers, serums and glosssers that provide slip and shine. Most ingredients ending in “cone,” “col,” “conol” or “zane” are silicones. Non water-soluble silicones can eventually prevent the hair from absorbing sufficient water/moisture to remain hydrated, which can cause dry hair.

Do not! I repeat DO NOT buy the product....if you can help it.

I know, I know there are hair products that's sulfate free that can be quite pricey, but what would you rather pay for....quantity or quality?? (think about it)


When I first started transitioning I leaned on Carols Daughter hair products since that was the only product that I knew of that made sulfate, alcohol, and silicone free products.

Carols Daughter has a excellent line of products which can be purchased on www.carolsdaughter.com or in your local Sephora store. What's also neat about Carols Daughter is that they do cater to the transitioners and have a product especially for ladies that's in the transitioning stages.

The price for the kit is $40.00 on CarolsDaughter.com

If you want to go for a less expensive product here are a few suggestions: (in which I use all three products by the way)

Beautiful Textures



Sold at Sally's Beauty Supply stores
Prices range from $4.99 to $21.99
 
SheaMoisture
Sold at Sally Beauty Supply Stores and Target Stores
Prices range from $9.99 to $21.99
 
As I Am
Sold at Sally Beauty Supply Stores and selected Target Stores
Prices range from $6.99 to $25.00
 
 
 
You have to research and try out different products that works for you. There are so many different lines of natural hair products for us curly heads you can easily become a product junkie.
 
But remember the 3 main things to look for when shopping for a good product to use in your hair.
 
 
Happy shopping ladies!!!
 
 
 
 
 
 
Love and light


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Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Just a few words.....

Hey Dolls!

Maybe I should have done this video when I first done the blog but better late than never right??

And I say UMM ALOT!! Gheez...maybe I need to take my public speaking course again huh

(I apologize for the video quality, I need to invest in a real camera not my iphone lol)




Love and Light!!!
Goodnight!!

The STRUGGLE!!!!

 



Hey Dolls!!!

Transitioning is a long and HARD process especially when you are trying to embrace your new growth of hair. Prior to me transitioning I experienced alot of breakage, because I relaxed my hair so often... especially in the middle of my head.
 




 
 
 
I  was SO OVER my thin, stringy hair so I went cold turkey without the creamy crack! BOY IT WAS HARD!! I was a long term transitioner because I just couldnt let all my hair....
 
The first rule if you are going to be a long term transitioner (meaning you will not cut off all of your relaxed hair) is to START TAKING CARE OF YOUR NEW GROWTH AND OLD GROWTH. Transitioning is the most crucial time for your hair because you are now working with two textures. You have your beautiful curls and then you have your dead, stringy, relaxed ends. Now what I did was rocked protective styles such as braids, half wigs and twist in order to keep my hands out of my hair.
 
 
 
 
Here are pics to show my struggle!! As you can see I was at this point almost natural but slowly trimming my relaxed ends.
 
So as you can see ladies I KNOW THE STRUGGLE!! It's really, really hard to transition but this is the best time to learn what products work for your hair and what doesnt work for you.
 
 
Another tip that helped me transitioned are blogs and vloggers!!!
 
Here's a list of my favorite bloggers
 
 
These ladies helped me learn so much about natural hair care, and even though their hair is GORGEOUS!! They are the ones that kept me inspired to keep going with transitioning even though I wanted to give in and slap in the creamy crack!
 
 
LOL!! I thought this was hilarious but it's true actually.....
 
Love and Light!!
 

Monday, July 22, 2013

A Couple of Forevers!!

Hey Dolls!!

This past weekend I had the honor and the privilege to be in one of my close friends wedding. She is one of the very few ladies I can count on for ANYTHING!
I was so filled with joy and love just to see someone get blessed with something she worked hard for, and her boo adores her!

I did my own hair (I could'nt believe it myself!)
My hair was done in a simple updo with Marley Braiding hair which can be purchased at your local beauty supply store. I paid $5.99 for one pack of hair. I used Ecostyler hair gel since it's highly recommended by the natural hair community (especially if you are on a budget like me)

Ecostyler Olive Oil hair gel

Doing my hair took me almost two hours because I was doing this for the first time off of trial and error, but once you play around with this and find what fits to your liking, then you will have the AH HA! moment like I did. I was so satisfied with my results!

I will do a tutorial very soon, after I perfect the Mohawk look with Marley Braiding Hair. This hair will fool anyone thinking it;s your natural hair because it blends so well.

Here is a youtube video by danteb that shows you a tutorial on how to do a natural mohawk updo with Marley braiding hair.






I was in LOVE with my make-up...now ladies I am not a person that wears make up besides lip gloss, but these ladies did an AMAZING job! I was obsessed with my eyebrows and they said I have contour cheekbones lol =)
 
 
 
 
 
 
Make-up done by 




 
 
 
 
                                                            Love and Light!
 


Saturday, July 20, 2013

Have you Developed a Wash Routine???



Hey Dolls!

I wanted to talk to you about developing a wash routine for your hair. Please do not believe the myth that our hair grows from being dirty. NOT TRUE! Hair grows from proper maintenance and a healthy lifestyle.

When you are natural, the less manipulation you have on your hair is better. It helps avoiding breakage in your hair.


So with that being said- I'm going to share my weekly schedule on how I properly care for my hair

Sunday (R&R Day)- My wash day, this is the day I take the time out to properly cleanse my scalp from any products or residue throughout the week.

Products used: AS I Am CoConut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner. (Sally's Beauty Supply $7.99)  
Smells yummy and it's inexpensive. Remember, always cleanse your hair with SULFATE FREE products.

Beautiful Textures Rapid Repair Deep Conditioner (Sally's $6.89)


Here is a quick video on how I deep condition my hair

I apologize for the quality of the video and drip, drip on my face =D
 
 



After the deep conditioning process is finished, I wash my hair out and use the LOC method in order to style my hair.
This includes putting a leave-in conditioner in my hair. (SheaMoisture Restorative Conditioner- Target $9.99)



The overall washing process is from 2-4 hours, maybe even longer!



Wednesday (CoWash Day) I wash my hair with Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Conditioner. (Can be purchased anywhere) I love this conditioner because it leaves your hair smelling so yummy and it provides intense moisture to your hair.

 **Note: Anytime I wash my hair I always apply the LOC method in order to retain the moisture from the water in my hair**




 
So Dolls that about sum up my weekly ritual for washing and caring for my hair. When I first started transitioning it took ALOT out of me to do to my hair, but as time went on I got the hang of it, and I actually look forward to washing my hair.
.
Very important in order to promote healthy hair growth and show some love to your hair, put yourself on a weekly wash schedule and develop a regimen-something for your hair to get use to. Trust me, your hair does have a mind of its own!


Love and Light!


Products + my hair = HEALTHY CURLS!




Hey Dolls! So I am starting to get the hang of the blog thing, I love it!

So I receive a ton of questions on what products to use for your natural hair and how to care for your natural hair....so I will start off by sharing products I use for my hair

**100% Pure African Shea Butter- I use Shea Butter when styling my hair mainly in my twists. Shea Butter is heavy and it locks in moisture into my hair. Curly hair can get really dry so PURE Shea Butter is the way to go!



***100% Pure Coconut Oil- I LOVE this stuff right chea! Coconut Oil is one of the best oils to use in order to lock in moisture in your hair, it penetrates your hair cuticle in order to promote healthy hair growth, and it can be used as a heat protectant if you use heat on your hair (which is not recommended by me)


***Oils- Now my curl friends....YOUR HAIR LOVES OILS MAN! There are so many oils out there in the market, but you have to be careful what kind of oils you purchase. Lean towards more of PURE oils such as, Pure Virgin Olive Oil (yup the stuff you stir fry your veggies with!), Castro Oil or Jamaican Castro Oil (which promotes hair growth), Jojoba Oil, Peppermint Oil (which feels so great on sensitive scalp like I have). Oils help lock in moisture into your hair after a wash. So anytime you put water in your hair...USE OIL TO SEAL!



***WATER!!!!- Ladies, your hair LOVES WATER!! Water is the most important ingredent to healthy curls. Water hydrates your hair and keeps it moisturized. Whenever your hair feels dry...WATER! Put water in a spray bottle and spritz the water on your hair followed by any creams and oils.

So one important tool to use when doing your hair is the L.O.C. method (Liquids, Oils, Creams)
*Use Water on your hair
*Seal your hair with any oil mixtures or a heavy and/or light oils (whichever your hair likes)
*Creams to seal in moisture and style (shea butters, homeade creams...)



In a nutshell, this is my routine I follow and the main products I use in order to achieve my looks and to perserve my curls!!!


Love and Light Dolls!